Single corded Brussels stitch
This stitch is the one that appears as the solid areas on very early needlepoint lace.

Those who find it difficult to work the stitches from both left and right should find this one a little easier, as it is worked in one direction only. The choice of direction depends upon whether the worker is right- or left-handed.

Row 1. Work a foundation row of close buttonhole stitches into the cordonnet. Whip the thread under and over the cordonnet, then lay it back across the space. Fasten under and over the cordonnet. This thread should lie just below the loops of the previous row.
Row 2. Work a buttonhole stitch through the first loop of the previous row and under the laid thread. Continue across the row, working one stitch into each one of the previous row. Miss the last loop of the previous row unless the space is increasing in size. Whip the thread under the cordonnet and lay it back across the space, fastening into the cordonnet on the other side of the space.
Row 3. Repeat row 2 until the space has been filled.

Point d’Espagne (English stitch, or hollie stitch)

There are several different names for this stitch, depending upon the type of lace in which it is found. There are also a number of different ways of forming the stitch, but the resulting twisted effect is the same. It is up to the worker to experiment to find the system that works most satisfactorily for him or her.

(NB: There is no explanation given for working the stitch in the Continental manner.)

Method 1. (From left to right.) Pass the needle over and under the cordonnet. Wrap the thread from the eye of the needle left to right under the point of the needle. Pass the point of the needle under the thread from the previous stitch. Pull up (If working from right to left, pass the thread from the eye of the needle from right to left.)

Method 2. Work a single buttonhole stitch, going over and under the cordonnet. Pass the needle from right to left through the resulting loop and case up. Reverse from right to left.

Method 3.  Place the left thumb over the working thread, then wrap the thread around the thumb from right to left. Take the needle through the loop and thread crossing the thumb. Pull up Wrap the thread around the thumb regardless of which direction the stitch is being worked.

Whipped stitch variations
Work a row of point d’Espagne stitches, then whip into the loops between the stitches. Work the next row of stitches incorporating the whipping and ioop of the previous row. This gives a firm edge if working around an area to be filled with a closer stitch, e.g. single corded Brussels stitch. It may also be used to decorate the inside edge of a flower petal while leaving the rest of the space open. The worker forms the stitch in the same direction each time.

Point de Valencienne

Work a foundation row of close buttonhole stitches.

Row 1.  Miss one, work two, miss one, work five *, repeat from * to * to the end of the row.
Row 2.  Miss the first stitch of the block of five, work two, miss one, two stitches into the next loop of the previous row, one into the group of two, then two into the loop (forming a block of five). * Continue in this manner to the end of the row.
Row 3. Work two stitches into the loop before the block of five, one stitch into each loop and two into the next loop (block of eight). Continue across the row working blocks of eight stitches.

The diamonds either increase or decrease as shown by the following sequence of numbers:

5    2   5
2    5   2
     8
2    5   2
5    2   5
8          8

 After each block there should be a space achieved by missing one stitch in the row above. The spaces form diamond patterns throughout the area.

Note: The traditional Gros Point Diamond, the stitch found in profusion in early Venetian Gros Point lace, is formed with a 3, 8, 13, 8, 3 stitch sequence using a point d’Espagne stitch, and often incorporating a cord.
Point de Valencienne achieves the same effect but is simpler to follow. It is also possible to work a corded version of this stitch.

Point de Valencienne (variations: corded and beaded)

These are variations of the point de Valencienne but with a cord laid so that all stitches are worked from the same direction. It is necessary to whip the cord through the loops that will be left without stitches on the next row. In order to whip the correct stitches, it is necessary to calculate where they will appear before commencing the row. The whipping may be omitted, but this means that the resulting hole is not so clear.

The other variation has beads threaded on the cord before laying it across. Whipping is not necessary in this case, but the number of beads must be counted carefully before threading. They are then stitched around into the appropriate loop above, as the work progresses across the row.

Working a spiraling or twisted cordonnette

To save the problem of gauging how much each stitch must be raised to give the spiraling effect, I suggest the following fail-safe system

Work 4, 5 or 6 stitches as normal i.e. lying straight along the edge, then take the needle over and under the laid threads pulling gently and bring out at the base ready to continue.

This has the effect of pulling the buttonhole loops up into a spiral (fig 2). Work the same number of stitches again and repeat. It works every time!